Count The Hyachinths

Count the hyacinths in this photo. I did not purchase this many bulbs. Apparently the 12 originally planted found time to visit a fertility clinic.

In the depth of their second winter, the grape hyacinth (muscari armeniacum) leaves were green and seemed to have grown through the cold season. I wrote about my concern and questioned their fall-winter growth [2.13.2009]. Now, as they are spewing forth flower spikes, I wondered if they were too crowded. One look at a photo of the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland answers that.

Some info found around the www:
• They are not actually hyacinths, but members of the lily family
• They are native to the eastern Mediterranean and Asia Minor
• The name 'muscari' comes from the Greek word for musk, relating to the smell of some types
• The name 'armeniacum' relates to Armenia
• The bulb is supposedly poisonous (hello, squirrels)
• Each 'grape' flower in the cluster has six petals

For The Record:   • Well drained soil   • Full sun   • Bone meal fertilizer applied in the fall Garden Calendar:   • Daffodils blooming: Lemon chiffon, ice follies, & fifer   • Tulips blooming: red emperor, generic orange, yellow dover   • Seeds started: Amaranthus, snapdragons, cleome, lagurus planted 11 April

Seedling Progress Record:
bell pepper	red onion

Bad Tulip Posture

The Red Emperor tulips (tulip fosteriana) are one of the favorites because these large-flower plants pop out early in the season. Last year, a few more were purchased to supplement my older collection. However, this year I noticed that these newcomers came on shorter stems in comparison to the older ones. Both were planted in the same bed under the same conditions.

The long stem emperors (right) were preferred since they stood taller and were more visible. As often happens, there were a few very windy days this spring. After Mother Nature calmed down, the long stem emperors all ended up leaning one way as a result of the wind. The shorter emperors (left) remained straight up. Maybe a short stem variety is better after all.

My past experience is that these bulbs always split and multiply, but the resulting bulbs may take two years to actually bloom. Also, warm weather in the spring tends to hasten the bloom decline faster than other tulips.

For The Record:   • Well drained soil   • Full sun   • Bone meal fertilizer applied in the fall Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: Lemon chiffon, ice follies, & fifer daffodils; red emperors & orange tulips   • Seedlings: Tomatoes planted 9 April

Cherry Blossom Spring

Tidal Basin In Washington, we know it's spring when the cherry blossoms and the tourists come out. Both were in abundance this past weekend in Washington around the tidal basin. I haven't been to the area in years, and Palm Sunday seemed like an opportunity to trek into town on a warm sunny day. Blooming cherry trees can be seen here and there around town without tripping over the tourists, baby strollers, and stepping on dogs. But there is a unique feeling in experiencing so many trees (and people) in one spot along the water. This entry is basically just a photo souvenir for my journal. Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: Emperor tulips, ice follies daffodils,     korean rhododendron, lemon chiffon daffodils   • Seedlings progress: Purple basil germinated, 7 days   • Outdoor progress: Spinach, radish germinated, 6 days   • Outdoor benchmark: Broccoli seedlings transplanted

Tulip Library The National Park Service maintains a Tulip Library nearby. Well, 'maintains,' is a matter of opinion. The area consists of about 100 beds of different tulips. It helps gardeners get a good idea of what different varieties look like, as well as their bloom times. In the past, a photocopy sheet with a map listing the varieties was available from a nearby box. This year, only an empty box stood, presumably a victim of budget cuts. There are no tags or markers in the different beds, leaving one to guess what varieties are planted. I found a map online when I got home.

Smithsonian Garden Afterwards, my feet carried me to a few nearby Smithsonian museums. The courtyard around the Sackler Gallery was in full bloom with fritillaria, thousands of purple hyacinths, saucer magnolias, and a weeping cherry.

Cornell Pink in Rehab

One of the first plants purchased from mail order years ago was the Korean Rhododendron (Rhododendron mucronulatum). There were two colors available, and 'Cornell Pink' was selected over the lavender version, which is not easily found now.

The early flowers on this deciduous rhododendron can be ruined by very cold temperatures, just as the magnolia. Flowers slightly larger than 1-inch across (3 cm) occur in clusters that start forming at the ends of the branches in the fall. The leaves come out after the blossoms fade, and drop in autumn after turning a luminous yellow.

This shrub is 20 years old, and a bit forlorn after years of sitting in the corner of the garden that is not well attended. It will be replanted this year when the backyard garden goes into rehab. A new deck was installed and new lawn planted last fall, and new plants are currently winging their way here from several online spring mail orders.

For The Record:   • Medium heavy soil   • Mostly shade   • No fertilizer, surface mulched once a year Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: Star magnolia, emperor tulips, ice follies daffodils, korean rhododendron   • Seeds planted: Angels Trumpet Ballerina, purple basil   • Seeds planted outdoors: Spinach, radish, poppy

Seedling Progress Record:
pepper	broccoli	red onion

Maximum Maggie

The star of the yard in spring is Maggie, the Star Magonlia. This is not just any star magnolia, but a "Dr. Merrill" (Magnolia x loebneri). Maggie is big, husky, muscular, and not like most normal star magnolias.

As an inexperienced beginner gardener over 15 years ago, the desire for a star magnolia resulted in a pick from a garden catalog photo. Normal star magnolias in town look delicate, usually growing into a tall shrub of several trunks, like a lilac. This one turned out differently. It grew about 20-30 feet tall (6 m to 9 m) into a full blown tree.

But big can be good. The blossoms are larger than a normal star magnolia. They result in more sweet magnolia scent perfuming the neighborhood. Last year, the tree was covered in blossoms. This year, they are less numerous, but with no cold damage, why?

Maggie's deciduous leaves are large and thick (the brute), providing a solid shade canopy over anything below. Very little grows under it due to the lack of light as well as to its thick root system, often running along the top of the ground. In the fall, the leaves turn a luminous golden yellow, and then fall to smother anything below it, along with those nasty seed pods.

Some small white snow azaleas were planted below it, but one has since died. Now, as the tree really matures, the search is on to find plants that can be fill in below it. The loosestrife [6.26.2008] planted below has done well for the past two years. Since grass no longer grows beneath, vinca minor ground cover will be transplanted there from another part of the yard to take its place. Vinca grows in dry shade. After researching online for this post, I find that this ground cover is a non-native invasive plant. It is a slow dancer in my yard, though.

For The Record:   • Medium heavy soil   • Full sun   • No fertilizer, surface mulched once a year Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: Star magnolia   • Seedlings progress: broccoli, peppers, onions germinated       Broccoli germination, 10 days       Peppers germination, 18 days       Onions germination, 9 days

Growing Pot

What type of growing pot do we use to start seedlings indoors? Some vessels may be more appropriate than others. In past years, I scoured the basement to find something to use as starter pots, and usually ended up with something less than ideal. Consider the possibilities and my experience.

Clay Pots
I use few of these because they tend to dry out. This is a concern since I leave the house during the day for work, and cannot leave seedlings in clay pots outdoors to harden off before planting. They will always require watering around mid- day. However, clay pots are reusable. Peppers were planted in these, but are not yet sprouted.

Peat Pots
I have tried these a few times in the past, and never liked them. They sound like a great idea, but they can be on the expensive side and not work as they were intended. They dry out fast, too, needing constant watering. One year tomatoes were started in them and planted directly into the ground. The tomatoes were very slow growing, compared to those transplanted into bare earth. The peat pots did not disintegrate well into the soil as was expected. The roots seemed constricted and had trouble growing through the solid peat.

Plastic Yogurt Cups
With holes punched in the bottom, these wide-top cups are used every year and, work great. They are a perfect size, and we get some additional use from the plastic before it makes its way to the recycle bin. Since no one thinks of saving them throughout the winter, you end up eating a lot of yogurt just to get the cups in spring. Peppers were recently planted in these cups.

Plastic Seedling Flats
The 4 or 6 compartment black plastic cell inserts made for seedlings work well. However, the big box stores along with the gardening centers here only sell the prepackaged bundle consisting of cell inserts, clear plastic cover, and plastic flat watering tray. I only want and need the cell inserts, but unfortunately we are forced to purchase everything in the bundle. The cell inserts can be purchased online for pennies, but shipping costs kill the deal. Check out Home Harvest: 8 cells inserts cost $7.92; shipping costs $7.75.

Egg Carton
These were tried one year and found to be too small. Soil also kept moving around from cell to cell. Seedlings were difficult to extract without damaging them.

Paper Cups
Paper Dixie cups are my favorite. Tall shapes can be found to allow for root growth. They are paper and biodegradable. They can easily be broken apart without plant damage at transplanting time. They are cheap. The wax coating prevents drying out. Labeling with marker is difficult on the wax coating, though. Broccoli is sprouting in these in only five days.

Milk Carton
My mom would cut off tops of milk cartons and had good luck starting seeds in the bottoms. Again, as with yogurt cups, one needs to save them.

Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: White forsythia   • Seedlings progress: broccoli

White Forsythia

Warm weather with temperatures in the 70's (low 20's C) last weekend (after a Monday snowstorm) has begun to bring out the white forsythia (Abeliophyllum distichum) blooms. These four shrubs were some of the first plants selected and planted in my garden, after reading the enticing descriptions from Wayside Gardens, who no longer offers the shrubs.

The White Forsythia plant has a few desirable characteristics that make it worthy in the garden. First, the shrub blooms at crocus and witch hazel time, and before the common yellow variety. It comes out at the end of February to beginning of March around here - which is very early.

Once the plant gets going, the blossoms' strong scent that resembles lilacs or ginger can easily be detected from anywhere in the yard. Being planted near the front sidewalk, the perfume from these sweeties are noticed by the neighbors. A few stems of blossoms can perfume an entire room when brought indoors.

Before anyone rushes to buy, consider the characteristics that Wayside Gardens never told us about. First, because they bloom so early, unexpected cold weather can destroy the flowers before they ever come out. About once every five years, warm weather will coax the blossoms to start, then cold weather below 20 degrees (-7 C) kills all of them. Second, don't let the catalog photos fool you - the blossoms are quite small and fragile. They are about 1/8 to 1/4 inch (6 mm), a much smaller size than the yellow forsythia, each only slightly larger than a single lilac blossom. Third, when brought into the house as cut flowers, they last for only about two days and their scent can turn bad after this time.

After blooming, new growth forms sparse clumps of intertwined branches that cannot be controlled. Shaping the shrub is impossible. After a few years, I cut the plant down and it vigorously grows back with long single arching branches. The photo from this year shows the shrub 2-feet (60 cm) in height. Come springtime, these appear rather graceful. A tangled overgrown mess in other years does not.

Finally, the flowers are not pure white, but tend to pink. In fact, some branches will appear light pink, while others on the same plant will appear white. A confused plant.

For The Record:   • Medium heavy soil   • Full sun   • No fertilizer, soil is mulched and shaded   • Cut back every three years or so Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: White forsythia, snow crocus   • Seed started: Peppers, broccoli, red onions (probably a bit late)

Crocuses Never Croaked

The first signs of spring have popped up. After the house was purchased 20 years ago, these species crocuses (Crocus chrysanthus) were found growing along the walk-out basement foundation, near the east-facing basement door. Sometimes called Snow Crocus, these have consistently bloomed every year with no attention or care.

Late fall, a new raised deck off the first floor was constructed over this area. Construction debris was left about throughout the winter, and only the early morning sun penetrated into this area. But the crocuses came back, diligently poking through the pieces of wood and straining to bloom again in a newly- shaded spot. I believe this is finally the year to move them. A new location must be found where they can be better-appreciated in early spring, and where they can enjoy the early spring sun and thrive.

Years ago, hybrid Dutch crocuses were planted. These had larger flowers, bloomed later, and came in more variety of colors than the species crocuses. However, these hybrids did not multiply much, and the plants and blooms shrunk more and bloomed less each year.

For The Record:   • Heavy compacted soil   • Partial sun, now mostly shade   • No fertilizer Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: species crocus

Presidents Day Cactus

Many years ago a Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) was purchased after the death of the Christmas Cactus. The Christmas Cactus was always a bit gaudy with its intense red-pink blossoms. The Thanksgiving cactus looked more serene, more different and unique - a 'requirement' for 'serious' gardeners.

The difference between the tropical Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus is that the Thanksgiving has sharper serrated leaves as compared to the more rounded leaves of the Christmas cactus. And the Thanksgiving cactus is supposed to bloom during November, when Thanksgiving is celebrated.

In the past, this one has bloomed at any time between Christmas and February. This year it picked Presidents Day. I could have begun the bloom earlier by exposing it to cold earlier (like keeping it outdoors during the fall), but I am happy for something blooming this time of year.

Is this normal?

These photos were taken way back in December. Both the grape hyacinth and blue dutch iris bulbs were left in the ground after last year's blooming for the first time. Now, just as winter begins in December, they are undergoing a spurt of growth - poking their heads out of their beds. Not just sneeking a peek, - but judge for yourself!

Will these plants survive the winter after the massive bust of green growth at this time of year? Will they even bloom when spring comes along? They were not fertilized in the fall, so what gives? Is this normal?

Jack Frost Paints With Roller

Frost on the car this morning created a very unique pattern never seen before. It is as if the pattern was made with a broad brush or roller rather than a small brush. This frost was found not only on the windshield, but also on the car itself.

Not much happening this time of year.

Waiting On The Frost

The end of the season comes to an abrupt end when the killing frost comes. It is a final exclamation point to the summer season, and signals the time to begin the big cleanup in the yard that includes cutting out the dead material, leaf mulching, and planting spring bulbs. The problem is that this year has seen no killing frost yet. Mid-October is the normal time around here. I hate ripping out plants still growing, even if they are on life support, so I wait.

There is yet some color in the front display garden. The cosmos [27.6.2008] are all but gone, but a few flowers continue on, making them even more striking against the dark brown backdrop of the jumbled mass of dying twigs. Their fiery red color is now a soft warm yellow. The suspicion is that either the cold weather, or short days and lack of sunlight cause them to lose color, or maybe both. At this time of year, several plants, mostly annuals, change from their normal habit and appearance but continue to hang on.

The cannas [24.7.2007] have never multiplied like they did this year. The flowers are not as abundant now, but this variety keeps on giving with their variegated zebra leaves. These leaves are now the eye catcher in the garden because of the size and quantity.

What can be said of these miniature Mexican zinnias (zinnia agustifolia)? These little fellows refuse to give in to the season and continue to look as healthy and fresh as when they were planted. They were purchased in spring to fill in where the grape hyacinth foliage was going to die off. They neatly spread into mounds of ever-blooming color, and continue to this day, fighting to the finish for attention with the canna leaves.

Other holdouts include everlasting green flowering nicotiana [17.7.2007] and purple-leaf basil with its light purple blooms. The purple salvia has also sprung back to life after some cutting back and deadheading last month.

Garden Calendar:   • Blooming: purple salvia, green nicotiana, cosmos, canna, basil, zinnia   • Leaf color change: star magnolia, dogwood, chinese redbud, hostas